[kwlug-disc] Best place to purchase Cat6 in K/W

Sun Jul 12 17:26:47 EDT 2015

I have DLink adapters (DHP-600AV).  I also have a TP Link adapter that I
use to connect a pc behind my TV (to smarten it up) so in a nutshell:

DLink - connected to the cable modem / router
DLink - connected to the bedroom PC (actually to a router and the pc is
connected to the router via ethernet cable)
TPLink - Connected to the pc behind my TV

Even though I've read that you cannot mix and match brands - the above
works fine for me.  With regards to a restart - I haven't had to unplug
/ plug these adapters for the past couple of months at least.  I have
had to restart my cable modem / router once during that period though. 

I am no expert so this may be a fluke - as a result I'm sharing as much
information as I can to help with your assessment.  Not sure if the OS
and how it interacts with the routers / adapters has anything to do with
it.  I use Manjaro and connect via ssh.

Sandeep

From:
Sandeep Johri

On 12/07/15 11:56 AM, William Park wrote:
> ‎Well, what's the make/model? And, is it reliable after awhile? I tried TP-Link and it works at first, but you have to unplug/plug it VERY frequently. So, I ended up running wire, duct taping it along the way. 
> -- 
> William
>
> Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Rogers network.
>   Original Message  
> From: Sandeep Johri
> Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2015 8:18 AM
> To: kwlug-disc at kwlug.org
> Reply To: KWLUG discussion
> Subject: Re: [kwlug-disc] Best place to purchase Cat6 in K/W
>
> This may be slightly off topic however thought I'd add my 2 cents regarding my sucess with Powerline Adapters. 
>
> My cable modem / router is in our basement and the bedroom upstairs gets no / a very weak wifi signal.  As a result I opted for powerline adapters.  Initially the broadband speed I'd get was 1/10th of the speed that I'd get on pc's connected directly to the cable modem.  However the following tweaks have helped improve that to 1/3rd of that speed:
>
> 1) Using a wall socket and not attaching the adpaters to a power bar.
>
> 2) Using that wall socket for the adapter only and not attaching any other gadget to the spare outlet.
>
> 3) Using the wall socket that is closest to the breaker switchboard.  My bedroom and the basement are on different circuits as a result being close to the switchboard helps ensure the signals travel the shortest distance.
>
> The above has resulted in my needing to run a 20' to 30' ethernet cable from my pc to the powerline adapter however the improvement in signal strength as been worth it.  There are several articles like this one that suggest ways to improve powerline adapter performance.  Additionally for the things I do at home (e.g. streaming movies / songs from my 'basement' pc, sharing files), I find them to be reliable.
>
> Thanks
> Sandeep
> From:
> Sandeep Johri
> On 08/07/15 09:35 AM, CrankyOldBugger wrote:
> I can confirm that power line ethernet is still a long ways from reliable.  I had some d-link adapters a few years ago and couldn't even get them to talk to each other.
>
> PoE, on the other hand, is something else altogether.  The VoIP system we use at work depends on PoE switches to light up the phones.  Every time we install the VoIP in a remote office we need to replace the existing switches with PoE equipment.
>
>
> On Wed, 8 Jul 2015 at 09:25 Raymond Chen <raymondchen625 at gmail.com> wrote:
> At first I thought Joe was talking about power line ethernet. After some study it turned out to be another thing. I guess Power over Ethernet is cool, if we are planning the wiring from scratch. BTW, the 'power line ethernet' is not very reliable. I have two adapters which work poorly, with a lot of packet loss, if I plug any of them in a power strip. If both of them are on wall outlet, they work well. 
>
> On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 7:04 PM, Joe Wennechuk <youcanreachmehere at hotmail.com> wrote:
> IMHO.....  Being that you're at the planning phase I would suggest the extra money on Power over Ethernet gear. It works very well, and provides much more flexibility of usage. It will save many headaches in the future and will allow you to position the wireless equipment it the optimum position.
> I have found Mikrotik gear to be extremely well made, reliable, and mostly for me cheap! And just using an rj-45 with out a power brick, module, and outlet necessity very nice indeed.
>
> http://wiki.mikrotik.com/wiki/Manual:PoE-Out
>
> I LOVE of the mikrotik monitoring and discovery tools, especially the "Dude"
>
>> From: aklists at mixdown.ca
>> Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2015 18:31:39 -0400
>> To: kwlug-disc at kwlug.org
>> Subject: Re: [kwlug-disc] Best place to purchase Cat6 in K/W
>>
>>> On Jun 10, 2015, at 5:59 PM, B. S. <bs27975 at yahoo.ca> wrote:
>>> And ... just in case ... don't forget, you'll want plenum rated cable, regardless of what you go with. (Heat/fire resistance.)
>>> (Dig into the kwlug archives within the last year or two, search cat6, there will be a group of messages from Cedric within that thread. It was good reading. 
>>> http://kwlug.org/pipermail/kwlug-disc_kwlug.org/ )
>> It was actually a kwartzlab post. I dug through and found it: http://kwartzlab.ca/pipermail/discuss_kwartzlab.ca/2012-September/001193.html
>>
>> I’m looking at building a house and to be honest, I’m far more inclined to put cat5e throughout. Any truly long runs (say over 50m) would be cat6, but my intention would be to install a 3” metal conduit going from the basement electrical room to the attic (and another from the basement to some central location on the main floor), and then requiring ANY non-power cabling to be run through them. I am not sure if I’d buy some 1/2” plastic conduit to run inside the walls of a given level or not (i.e. from the central conduit to a specific outlet) but I would ask that all non-power wires be left loose in the walls so I could more easily pull new cabling if the need arose.
>>
>> Using a metal conduit between floors might even alleviate the need for plenum-rated cable, although to be honest most solid core cable is plenum-rated anyway. You can find 1000 foot boxes of plenum rated, solid core cat5e for about $45 on amazon, and I’d also check with local contractor outlets like Graybar to see what they can do (since you wouldn’t have to pay for shipping).
>>
>> -A.
>>
>>
>>
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